BMW E36 Blog

If you’re thinking about replacing your BMW E36 M42 or M44 spark plugs, then this DIY (Do It Yourself) is for you. It was written by Olaf Johnson. The procedure is very clear and the pictures are just fabulous. I hope you will find it useful. Thanks Olaf.

Disclaimer: Use this info at your own risk!! I’m not responsible if this didn’t work for you :-).

I ordered my set off eBay for $20 free shipping. The dealership wanted $13.95 per plug. I decided to stick to OEM and be simple since this was my first time doing this DIY. I started the car before so I could take note of how the car started before changing the plugs (listen to sound, vibration and start speed).

Start with a cold engine; Get out your tools from the BMW Tool Tray in the trunk. If your tray is empty or molested with as is the case with buying used cars you can buy the two tools from the dealership for $20 or so or get it at eBay or the junkyard for cheap. I’m not sure if other spark plug tools are compatible with these cars.

Removal of the cover to get to the wire set that caps the plugs is easy on the M42/M44 E36 Engines.

OEM Bosch Super Plugs

I finally get to use these tools. This one is the spark plug wrench

Next get the wrench’s twister thingy that allows you to turn the wrench.

Open this by turning the two circles so the slits are vertical.

Careful not to break the cover clip at the front end.

Find your smurf tool and begin pulling the wire set caps off each plug. Start at the front (hole #1) where you can see better and have more room to maneuver.

Use it to pull out the plug wire set. Start at the front since it is easier to get to and see what you are doing.

Slide it over the head and pull up. It may take some effort if your plugs were not changed in a while.

If it is tough to pull you can use the spark plug wrench twister tool to get a good grip.

The cap comes off easily and you will see the hole that the plug sits in. Go to work with your wrench. If your plugs are old and haven’t been changed in awhile get ready to put some elbow grease in. Also remember to turn counter-clockwise to remove the plugs. Be careful not to damage the plug threading or the holes threading that the plug screws into or you could seriously damage your engine (ie. The engine will need to be replaced). So no power tools for this DIY!!! The plugs are also screwed in deep so be prepared to be standing there twisting for a few minutes until the plug releases.

Hole #1: You will hear a nice suction pop when the wire set cap is released from the hole.

use the wrench like this. Twist counter clockwise to release the plug. Again if your plugs are old it will be stubborn for the first twist. It’s also screwed in deep so keep at it until you feel the plug is loose.

Keep twisting. They are screwed in deep so be patient.

Hole #4 is particularly difficult to get to. Be creative and use lots of elbow grease especially if your plugs are old and stubborn to twist off.

The Spark Plug Wrench should grip the plug when you are done screwing it loose. Just lift the wrench up and the plug will come out with the wrench. Inspect the old plug, clean the hole* if it is dusty or oily and replace with the new plug and spark plug wire set cap for that hole before moving onto the next hole.

Note: If you have air-in-the-can you should blow any dust or debris out the hole before removing the old plug. You DO NOT WANT to get anything into the hole or chamber that lies below the plug. So once the old plug is out DO NOT clean or put anything down there. It may get into your chamber and damage the engine. And that is a trip to the dealership you do not want to make since a new engine will run you $5,000 to $8,000 plus the labor cost at around that much.

Some of your plug holes may be covered in oil and may look like this when you pull them out. A little bit of oil should be fine for now like I have here in my 2nd plug hole, but a lot of oil and you should replace the Valve Head gasket as soon as you can which is an easy DIY.

The threads on my second plug is covered in oil but the spark plug’s head is dry ?!

Inside second plug’s hole after the plug is removed notice oil trail. There was no oil deep inside the hole, and at best I could only see oil on the ledge.

Second plug:

Two of my middle plugs at hole#2 and #3 had oil in them, with 2 being the worse. Oddly enough, the oil was only on the top half and the threads of the plug but there was absolutely no oil on the business end of the plug a.k.a the spark plug head

When you are done you can inspect the old plugs for clues as to what is going on inside your engine block. I haven’t worked out how to read plugs yet, but I will read up on it later. You can easily Google this info.

When you are done clean your tools and put everything back and start your car and listen to the engine and note the start up time. Does it sound/start better?

Are you looking for more do it yourself procedures (DIY) ? I recommend the Bentley BMW 3 series service manual for you. I got it and I think it’s a gold mine for us -BMW E36 Owners-. If you didn’t grab your copy yet, get it right now! I’m sure you’ll find this book worth every penny you’ve paid for. Get the Bentley BMW 3 series service manual

BMW E36 Blog: The ultimate BMW E36 information source.

Hi All,

Anyone had a chance to read my previous post BMW E36 M42 DISA Valve and check the DISA valve for me? :p Come on, no one with M42 engine? or are you afraid to discover a problem in your engines?

BMW E36 Blog: The ultimate E36 information source.

This post was contributed by Bernard Gutnick. It’s about how to replace the camshaft position sensor inside his 1997 BMW E36 328i.

Disclaimer: Use this info at your own risk!! I’m not responsible if this didn’t work for you :-).

The DIY is in PDF format. Click here to read the DIY

Replace BMW E36 Camshaft Position Sensor

Are you looking for more do it yourself procedures (DIY) ? I recommend the Bentley BMW 3 series service manual for you. I got it and I think it’s a gold mine for us -BMW E36 Owners-. If you didn’t grab your copy yet, get it right now! I’m sure you’ll find this book worth every penny you’ve paid for. Get the Bentley BMW 3 series service manual

BMW E36 Blog: The ultimate BMW E36 information source.

As you may know, I’m facing trouble with my BMW E36 318is idle and until now, I was unable to totally fix the problem. I’ve cleaned the ICV, changed oxygen sensor, checked for vacuum leaks but this didn’t solve my problem. I still have a problem in one of the knock sensors, but mechanics say that it doesn’t affect the idle in anyway. Well, although this may sound correct, but I’m going to change it anyway simply because I hate to have such a problem in my car which may cause some damage to the engine.

Now, I’ve discovered last week that my DISA valve doesn’t close. For those who don’t know what the DISA valve is, please check here and here.

I’ve tried to reach to the DISA valve and check to see if the actuator arm retracts if I turned my engine on and below 4,700 RPM. I found out that the DISA valve doesn’t close and I think this may affect the idle although I’m not 100% sure of that.

So, what I’m looking for is some help from you guys. Anyone with M42 engine can confirm that the DISA valve actuator arm retracts when you start your engine. To check that simply:

1. Reach with your hand behind the DISA diaphragm.

2. You should feel a small arm that you can press with your finger when the engine is off.

3. Now, according to the Bentely manual, the actuator arm should retract when the engine is started (at idle).

Now, can you feel the actuator arm retracts when the engine is started? Can you please confirm this?

BMW E36 Blog: The ultimate E36 information source.

This is a list of tips for the BMW E36 owners. Some are for the new owners and some are for the experienced and some of these tips are made just for fun. Read the list carefully, I hope you find it useful and enjoyable:-

Note: I underlined some of the tips that I think are very important.

The coolant pump (water pump) will either fail or start leaking.

The upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing will break.

The cooling system may require several bleed sessions to completely rid the system of air. The coolant low indication will appear on the OBC.

The VANOS rattles like pebbles in a tin can.

The valve train sounds like a diesel after sitting for a few days or on cold morning start ups.

The brake pad sensors do not require replacement unless the brake pad symbol is illuminated in the instrument cluster.

The brake circuit failure indication on the OBC is cleared by replacing the switch located above the brake pedal.

The clutch pedal squeaks and moves laterally due to worn bushings. Replace with Delrin AF bushings.

The clutch slave cylinder is a high fail component. Replace it and bleed the clutch system before dropping large cash on a clutch job.

Flush and bleed the brake fluid every two years.

Flush and bleed the cooling system every two years. Use BMW coolant and distilled water 50/50 mix.

Replace the thermostat housing with an aluminum aftermarket.

There are no adverse effects of using synthetic fluids at any mileage.

The shifter can be replaced with a short shift kit, including Delrin AF bushings, for ~$175.00

Wheel offset means the number of millimeters the mounting surface is from the centerline of the rim.

Buy a quality clicker type torque wrench.

Buy a Bentley Manual.

Batteries fail when the weather turns cold.

Belt tensioner and idler pullies fail and make hideous noises.

Buy a set of Blitz Rhino ramps.

Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil is available at Wal-Mart for cheap.

Distilled water is in the water aisle at the grocery store.

Buy a quality floor jack.

Buy quality jack stands.

Buy wheel chocks.

Buy a fire extinguisher.

Torque wheel bolts to spec. to avoid rotor warp.

Establish a good relationship with the parts guy at the local dealer.

Tip said parts guy.

Clutch Judder is normal in traffic jams due to hot clutch plates

Don’t buy Lexus type rear lights, its not big nor clever!

Does my car have LSD? Solution; get in some dirt or sandy pavement (as not to abuse the car) and spin the damn tires, or jack the rear up and turn one rear wheel and see if the other spins the same way.

Yellowing and faded plastic headlight covers can be restored by using Mequiars #10 and #17 Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish

The dealer will try to [Oops!] you! If there are no independent bimmer mechanics in your area, leave a jar of vaseline with the dealership service manager along with your keys

The check engine light is USUALLY caused by the o2 sensor but there may be other reasons for it to be set off

The little O with ridges around it are the brake pad sensors. They are in the LF and RR

The e36 does have a ‘natural’ lean when driverless and looked at from behind

DTM tips were invented Osama bin Laden….don’t support terrorism

OBD2 cars cannot be ‘chipped’ there must be a software download

Chips and ‘sharked’ downloads merely advance the ignition timing and will not make your car beat a Corvette

E36’s are not drag cars, due to their diff ratios. If an Integra beats you, your stoopid azz deserves it

Larger rims and speaker boxes will add weight and slow down your car although you think louder means it’s moving faster

When you hear a “thunk” from the middle of the car, it’s probably the Guibo. (flex disk)

When you hear a “thunk” from the back of the car, it’s probably the Rear Shock Mounts. (RSMs)

If it’s cold, and you have trouble starting the car, you probably have a cold starting problem.

$tealer survival list includes: credit card with high credit limit, ETK & TIS, an attorney, and Vaseline.

Q: I just changed my spark plugs now I’m getting rough idle.
A: Gee, could it be the new Platinum+4 spark plugs you just put in?

RTFM – Read the Farking Manual!

The *ding* you hear when it is cold out means It IS cold out, duh! (dings at 38F)

325/328/M3 exhausts are interchangeable. 318 are not.

Buy an genuine BMW water pump

An M3 lever is a short shifter for a 325

A Z3 lever is a short shifter for a 328

Have all rear bushings inspected regularly on 325s

Oil the seats regularly

There is a moonroof available but it is very expensive.

If you want nitrous, you’ve bought the wrong car 😆 .

The value of a car does not increase with mods by any logical amount

Yes, red cars ARE faster

This car will NOT get you laid.

A faulty seatbelt sensor will cause the SRS warning light to stay on

Not closing the gas cap all the way will cause an engine warning light just about every time.

Once you take the dashboard apart you will NEVER get the glovebox door to line up perfectly again.

before disconnecting the battery. Make sure you write down the radio code or have the radio code card that comes in the owners manual.

The most popular setup of aftermarket name brand shocks for the E36 are H&R w/ Bilsteins.

The tire in the trunk helps to maintain a near 50-50 weight ratio. If you decide to auto-X the car, you may want to leave the spare tire in the car.

For OBDI E36’s you can use the pedal trick to get the fault codes. For OBDII, you will need a code reader.

If you find oil in your spark plug well, most likely cause is that your valve cover gasket is leaking.

You can “double lock” your doors by turning your key all the way to the right from the drivers side door and all the way left from the passenger side door.

The two significant problems on the early 318’s were the profile gasket (which is not a head gasket) and the Bad Valeo alternators

Pulsating headlights usually indicates your voltage regulator or alternator needs changing

The profile gasket affected only the M42 engines

The 318’s have had 3 separate belt and pulley configurations between the M42 and M44

Altezza tailights were created by Satan himself…do not support raw evil

Chips do work, but the wont make your car wheelie like herbie the luv bug it will simply increase your ignition timing for a more robust/smoother torque curve

BMW E36 Blog: The Ultimate E36 Information Source.